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2018年1月1日星期一

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II: Hands-On Review [116300 Silver Index]



Eternal Luxury – The Datejust II
Hands-On Review: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II [116300 Silver Index]

The Oyster Perpetual DateJust II is one of Rolex’s most horologically simple watches, with the only added complication being a simple date function. This Iconic watch has a striking presence on the wrist but is less blingy and showy than other Rolex’s; the watch commands a high level of respect without appearing overly flamboyant.

It’s not standing on its head to gain attention like its sibling the Yachtmaster II or insanely robust to depths never before dived down to like the Rolex Deepsea – this, is a sensible Rolex, for sensible people.


Buy the DateJust II from our shop here.


Background

The DateJust was originally released in the year 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex being incorporated. At the time it was the very first automatic watch to feature an automatically changing date window; thus, changing the face of wristwatches forever after.

The Datejust was not only an innovative timepiece at the time but has become the modern archetype of the classic watch, it simply tells the time and date with nothing to complicate things, its design transcends changes in fashion (preserving relevance) like a bullion of gold maintains its value during economic turmoil. Aesthetically, the Datejust II has endured for well over half a century and kept relevance with a simple but powerful design blueprint. Making a timepiece that will eternally be remembered for its timeless luxury and sophistication.


Construction

It’s the go-to iconic classic watch. A winding rotor uses the movement of the wearer’s wrist to charge the mainspring and calculate the time and date. The clean design transcends the fluctuating tides of fashion. Aesthetically, the DateJust retains relevance and will never go out of fashion.




The DateJust II (with a 41mm diameter) is currently available in 22 different options from our shop with a number of variations to select from.
Hour markers can be Batons, Arabic numerals, Roman Numerals, or Gem-Sett.
Bezels can be either smooth or fluted.
The dial can be selected as matt or sunburst (radially brushed) by varying degrees and are predominantly available in white, grey, black and metallic colours.
Case

The case of the DateJust II is constructed out of either stainless steel or ‘Rolsler’ two-tone yellow gold; if you would like a Rolex watch like this in complete solid gold, then you can select the most prestigious DayDate or the smaller sized DateJust 36.

Water-Resistance wise, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust II will endure the usual 100m under water, which is no surprise, as this is the minimum depth that all Rolex watches are resistant to with the exception of the Cellini Collection.


(The Datejust II used in this hands-on review includes a smooth bezel, a stainless steel body, a white sunburst dial, and index markers. It has the reference code of 116300 Silver Index, also known as M116300-0007.)


Dial

Of every Datejust available this I would say is the absolute simplest. The non-fluted bezel desires for a more versatile life than the more formal fluted bezel that is famously present on the ‘President’ Day-Date. The ever so subtly brushed dial is less pronounced than the texture on a Submariner, but remains interesting and gives some depth to what would be a rather plain dial. Despite the hour markers, the face of the watch and hands being so similar in colour – legibility is surprisingly good, and is further assisted in low light with the help from Rolex’s Chroma Light luminescent fill.


Bracelet

Having worn a Rolex watch with this type of Oyster bracelet I can confirm that they are exceptionally comfortable to wear. The 904L stainless steel carries an excellent finish and really distinguishes Rolex from the rest of the luxury watch industry. The Oyster bracelet is the simplest type that Rolex makes with a three link wide width, with the outer links being brushed, and centre links being polished; giving a certain degree of versatility for the types of environments the watch will be comfortable to wear in.



The Datejust looks and feels noticeably smaller than the Daytona and Submariner of 40mm despite the Datejust II having a marginally larger 41mm casing size. This is due to the slimmer profile of the casing and a smaller deployant clasp, lending the DateJust II the edge up on comfort, particularly for people with slimmer wrists that many find wearing a bulkier watch uncomfortable during prolonged periods of time.

The Oysterlock double-locking deployant clasp is well designed and balanced between being functional, robust and reliable, plus being lightweight enough to melt away on your wrist without getting in the way.
Movement

Whilst the DateJust II is one of Rolex’s more affordable watches, its internals are by no means ‘low spec’, in actual fact the internals of this multipurpose watch are made to be more reliable than the current Submariner diving watch because of the addition new technologies and movement refinements.

The Rolex calibre 3136 movement is the beating heart of the DateJust II; with a new shock absorber and technological refinements that are yet to be implemented in other Rolex watch collections. It features:
A Paraflex shock absorber, an innovation being produced by dynamic 3D modelling from Rolex, that increases shock absorbing efficiency by 50% without risking any parts deforming.

This is in addition to the Rolex standard features of:
A balance wheel with a variable-inertia thanks to its gold Microstella nuts that allow it to be regulated with a high precision.
A blue Parachrom hairspring crafted from a paramagnetic alloy. Which is only very weakly pulled to magnet poles, and will not retain permanent magnetism. Helping to make the blue Parachrom hairspring 10 times more resistant to bumps and impacts than a standard hairspring; and highly resistant to magnetic fields interfering with time keeping accuracy.
Every Rolex watch is not only COSC certified but has undergone an even more vigorous and selective Superlative Chronometer test by Rolex after the movement has been cased, that has a margin of error under half that of COSC.
And the hairspring also has the Rolex overcoil that effectively counters the effects of gravity; keeping it perfectly balanced and concentric, contributing to further timekeeping precision excellence.

The Rolex calibre 3136 is an automatic movement, with a date function, that was entirely developed by Rolex in-house. With 31 jewels, operating at 28,800 v/h, and a 48-hour power reserve.
Comparisons

The biggest competitor to the classic DateJust II (41 mm) watch would be the Omega Aqua Terra Automatic Chronometer 41.5mm.


With this very similar watch available from our shop here to buy – 231.10.42.21.02.001 Omega Aqua Terra Automatic.

Yes, people who are looking to buy a Rolex will most likely buy the Rolex. And some might argue that Omega has ‘borrowed’ a few design ideas from Rolex. But if for whatever reason you want something a bit different, the Omega Aqua Terra Automatic Chronometer may be something to look into.

They both look remarkably similar with the exception of the differently shaped hands, hour markers, dial texture, and the absence of a date magnifying window. Also, the Omega is missing the strap adjustability that the Easylink extension system gives the DateJust II. The major differences between the two luxury watches being the considerably different price tags, and the difference in brands that makes these two luxury swiss watches.
Conclusion

With the new Daytonas currently in incredibly high demand (with waiting lists currently at about 8 months), it may be a good idea to find other Rolex’s or luxury watches that you like – the Datejust II is a good contender with its versatile design that lends itself to a versatile life from living with jeans and a t-shirt one day, to a suit and tie the next. This watch will match nearly everything you could possibly wear, add still look great at the same time.

The DateJust II has a level of grandeur that firmly holds it as the classic archetype wristwatch with its clean design that will never get old. Its status as a stainless steel Rolex means this watch will hold its value incredibly well compared to other luxury watches. Its movement is built to an incredibly high standard of precision and reliability with a few innovations that the more sporty Submariner and other watch ranges have yet to receive.

It is quite simply – a classic watch that will never get old!


This Rolex DateJust II [116300 Silver Index] is available to buy from our shop at a discounted price from here.


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